Yeasted Almond and Sea Salt Deep Dish Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Monday, 8 December 2014


Inside our flat there is a seven-foot tree held in position by the ceiling. This year we chose a sparing selection of fancy shmancy £4-a-pop John Lewis decorations instead of 100 glittery baubles from the Pound Land.  The tree is leaning slightly to the left, but I suppose that’s what happens when you invest in something real. 

Baking cookies in a cake tin won’t add a touch of all spice to a Christmas baking repertoire, but it does add a barely cooked doughy middle to the modest sized batch this recipe yields. I think that adding some ground cloves or cinnamon, or a warming combination of both elevated with some fresh nutmeg, could work beautifully, especially if you’re finally in the festive spirit (festive spirit = continuous spice trip in the month of December). Let’s not forget that cookies are a bribe the kids might use on Santa so he doesn’t disappoint them with a lump of coal.  Not to be ageist, but the heaps of sea salt, whole nuts and bitter chocolate in this cookie tray bake are all adultly ingredients too.
My favourite recipe for chocolate chip cookies is the New York Times adaptation of Jacques Torres’ recipe, which is made with bread flour. Since discovering it, all of my cookies have had bread flour in them because it gives a chew, and a slight sturdiness on the outside that is difficult to forget. 

To amplify the bread-like flavour I used yeast as the raising agent and chilled the tray overnight, maturing the fermentation like this created a surprisingly subtle yeastiness. Bicarbonate of soda is fine to use as a replacement, but I’m sick of accidentally adding too much bicarbonate and ending up with a batch of soapy baked goods. Using fast acting yeast eliminates all possibilities of that, and it creates a crispy and crackly top layer caused from the swollen air pockets that rise to the top of the cookie overnight. Yeast and bicarbonate of soda both produce carbon dioxide that helps the cookie rise in the oven, but I much prefer the characteristics of bread in my cookies instead of, say, Imperial Leather.
Yeasted Almond and Sea Salt Deep Dish Chocolate Chip Cookie

Makes 8 large pieces or 16 slithers.

Ingredients
  • 125g unsalted butter
  • 125g light brown sugar
  • 2 pinches sea salt
  • 1 tsp coffee extract or brewed coffee
  • 1 egg
  • 200g strong bread flour
  • ½ tsp fast action yeast
  • 100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped
  • 50g almonds, roughly chopped
Method

  1. In a small saucepan brown the butter on medium heat. Let the butter sizzle in the pan for a few minutes, keep an eye on it as it burns really quickly, you’ll know it’s browned when it starts to smell nutty. Pour the butter in a large bowl and leave to cool slightly. Add the sugar, salt and coffee extract to the butter and stir to combine then crack in the egg and briefly whisk.
  2. In a separate bowl stir together the flour and yeast and add to the butter mixture. The mixture will be a little wet. Fold through the chocolate and almonds. Dump the dough into an 8-inch round cake tin and use the back of a spoon to gently press into the tin. Tightly wrap the tin in cling film and leave in the fridge for 2 hours or overnight. Once you're ready to serve the cookie, preheat the oven to 200˚C/fan 180˚C/gas 6 and bake for 18 minutes, or 14 minutes for a gooey middle. Cookie lasts for 3 days if covered.

Waitrose might have nailed gingerbread this Christmas, but they also have a lovely collection of chocolate cake recipes on their website. I made their ganache covered red-velvet-like layer cake and filled it with tangy freeze-dried strawberries, which was dense and hit all the right choco-spots. You can find the recipe here, along with lots more chocolatey goodness.

Love Em xx

How To Make A Perfectly Round & Thick Brown Butter Chocolate ChipCookie + Recipe

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Thursday, 24 October 2013

We’re nearing the end of autumn and I’ve yet to post edible shades of orange on here.  You should know that I purchased a mini pumpkin today. I am probably going to place it on my windowsill and stare at it for a week or so, occasionally wondering whether it’s worth sacrificing the plump beauty of a good old pumpkin.

I am basically just sitting here all year round, baking the wrong things at the wrong time.

This disorder stretches across my entire culinary life e.g. lentil soup in the summer was a staple for mama and me. But when is the right time to bake chocolate chip cookies? They seem to somehow stumble into my diet every other day so yeah…NOW IS THE RIGHT TIME.

Sure, the internet doesn’t need yet another cookie recipe to add to its vast collection. So I thought I’d carry out a few geeky ‘measurement tests’ (is that a thing?) to try and give back to the internet what I think its missing: exact cookie dough measurements for perfectly rounded, thick and nonetheless; chewy chocolate chip cookies.
After three attempts and a whole batch of oval cookies, this is what eventually worked:

Mould raw cookie dough into cylinders that are 2.7 / 3 cm wide and 3 cm long. The cylinders should weigh 34 grams, this will give you a cookie that is at least 3 mouthfuls before it disappears. Of course, you can repeat this process 28 times because this is how many cookies the recipe yields.

Speaking of the recipe, the lovely Nora from Buttercream Fanatic has a foolproof recipe (cookie queen cookie queen) that I have used as the base for this recipe. To give the cookies an extra depth of flavour/nuttiness I browned (burned) the butter, if you think I’m going crazy, you can read about the process here. You would think that this would eliminate the ‘thickness’ of said cookies, but if you pop the dough in the fridge for long enough, the butter re-solidifies, leaving you with a cookie that is none other than effing delicious, 28 times ;).
Brown butter chocolate chip cookies

1 cup (215g) light brown sugar
1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, melted and browned
1 egg + 1 egg yolk
2 1/4 (280g) cup plain flour
1 1/2 tsp cornflour
1 1/4 tsp baking soda
1 cup (150g) dark chocolate chips

Makes 28 small cookies

Method

Add the brown sugar to a large bowl and pour over the melted butter. Mix to combine. Lightly beat the eggs in a small cup and pour into sugar mixture. Mix until just combined. Toss in the flour, cornflour and baking soda and stir until a thick dough forms. The mixture will be warm from the melted butter so cover and set aside for 15 minutes. Fold in the chocolate chips once the dough is cooled. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for 3 hours/overnight.

Preheat oven to 180 C. Weigh out 34g of dough and shape into a cylinder. The cylinder should be roughly 3 cm long and 3 cm wide. Repeat the process, placing each cylinder of dough in the fridge whilst you make the rest. Place on cookie sheets 3 inches apart and bake for 12 minutes. Let the cookies rest on the sheets before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Cookies last for 3 days.
How do you shape your cookies before they hit the oven? Love Em xx

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